Emerald â€“ May birthstone
I love green; itâ€™s my second favorite color after
purple.Â Wearing Â green brings out my green eyes, so Iâ€™m a huge
fan.Â Emerald is one of the three
precious gemstones and of course just gorgeous.Â
Read on to find out more about this great gem.
Emeralds, like all colored gemstones,
are graded using four basic parametersâ€“the four Cs of Connoisseurship: Color, Cut,
Clarity and Crystal. The last C, crystal, is simply a synonym for transparency,
or what gemologists
Before the 20th century, jewelers used the term water, as in "a gem of the
finest water," to express the combination of two qualities: color and
crystal. Normally, in the grading of colored gemstones, color is by far the
most important criterion. However, in the grading of emeralds, crystal is
considered a close second. Both are necessary conditions. A fine emerald must
possess not only a pure verdant green hue as described below, but also a high degree of transparency to be considered a top gem.
In the 1960s, the American jewelry industry changed the
definition of 'emerald' to include the green vanadium-bearing beryl as emerald.
As a result, vanadium emeralds purchased as emeralds in the United States are
not recognized as such in the UK and Europe. In America, the distinction
between traditional emeralds and the new vanadium kind is often reflected in
the use of terms such as 'Colombian Emerald.'
Scientifically speaking, color is divided into three
saturation and tone. Emeralds occur in hues ranging from
yellow-green to blue-green, with the primary hue necessarily being green.
Yellow and blue are the normal secondary hues found in emeralds. Only gems that
are medium to dark in tone are considered emerald; light-toned gems are known
instead by the species name green beryl. The finest emerald are approximately
75% tone on a scale where 0% tone would be colorless and 100% would be opaque
black. In addition, a fine stone should be well saturated; the hue of an
emerald should be bright (vivid). Gray is the normal saturation modifier or
mask found in emerald; a grayish-green hue is a dull green hue.
Emeralds are green by definition and are the green variety
a mineral which comes in many other colors that are sometimes also used as
gems, such as blue aquamarine, yellow heliodor,
and colorless goshenite.
Emerald tends to have numerous inclusions and surface
Unlike diamond, where the loupe standard, i.e. 10X magnification, is used to grade
clarity, emerald is graded by eye. Thus, if an emerald has no visible inclusions to the eye (assuming normal visual
acuity) it is considered flawless. Stones that lack surface breaking fissures
are extremely rare and therefore almost all emeralds are treated,
"oiled", to enhance the apparent clarity. Eye-clean stones of a vivid
primary green hue (as described above) with no more than 15% of any secondary
hue or combination (either blue or yellow) of a medium-dark tone command the
highest prices. This relative crystal non-uniformity makes emeralds more likely
than other gemstones to be cut into cabochons,
rather than faceted shapes.
Most emeralds are oiled as part of the post-lapidary
process, in order to improve their clarity. Cedar oil,
having a similar refractive index, is often used in this
generally accepted practice. The use of oil is traditional and largely accepted
by the gem trade. Other treatments, for example the use of green-tinted oil,
are not acceptable in the trade. The laboratory community has recently
standardized the language for grading the clarity of emeralds. Gems are graded
on a four step scale; none, minor, moderate and highly enhanced. Note that
these categories reflect levels of enhancement, not clarity. A gem graded none
on the enhancement scale may still exhibit visible inclusions.
Given that the vast majority of all emeralds are treated as
described above, and the fact that two stones that appear visually similar may
actually be quite far apart in treatment level and therefore in value, a
consumer considering a purchase of an expensive emerald is well advised to
insist upon a treatment report from a reputable gemological laboratory. All
other factors being equal, a high quality emerald with moderate enhancement
should cost half the price of an identical stone graded none.
Emerald is regarded as the traditional birthstone
for May, as well as the traditional gemstone for the astrological
signs of Taurus, Gemini and sometimes Cancer.
Happy Birthday May!